In a piece on the website Thrillist headlined: “I found the best burger place in America. And then I killed it,” Kevin Alexander last week made an unusual confession. Uncommonly extensive research (330 restaurants tested across 30 states over the course of 12 months) had led the award-winning food writer to compile, last year, a 100-strong power list of the best burgers in the US. Now he was reporting on how, within five months of publication, the mom-and-pop joint that made No 1 on that list – Stanich’s, in Portland, Oregon – had been forced to close, supposedly succumbing to the pressures that come from being overrun by burger tourists. It didn’t help that “personal problems” made rising to the challenge of the restaurant’s newfound popularity too difficult for Stanich’s proprietor. Alexander was feeling awful about it.

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Vijay Nanda

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