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Virgil Abloh, the US designer who turned sports kit and irony into high fashion, performed a U-turn at his Off-White show on Thursday night by showing a collection without a single tracksuit.

On a checkerboard catwalk, in an unexpectedly hallowed Parisian hotel conference centre – Alexander McQueen used to show here a decade ago – the streetwear designer turned his attention instead towards a grownup wardrobe, which was split between minimalism and glamour, colour and neutrals. In short, old Off White and a new direction. For every pair of trainers, there was a pair of heels.

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Vijay Nanda

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