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Episode one of Dynasties follows a troop of western (or West African) chimpanzees, led by alpha male David, in Senegal. This subspecies of chimp (one of four) is now critically endangered, and there are few opportunities to see them in their natural habitat. Senegal is also relatively new as a tourist destination and organised holidays focus mainly on the country’s cultural highlights, such as the Unesco-listed island of Gorée, and bird-watching in Djoudj national park.
To see these chimpanzees in their natural habitat, visit Tiwai Island on the Moa River in Sierra Leone (2-3 hours from Freetown by car or bus), which has a wildlife sanctuary with 11 species of primate, and is thought to be one of the few remaining places travellers are likely to see western chimpanzees in the wild. Forest walks start from around £5. Admission costs £12 for the day, and there are also options to stay overnight, such as at a B&B lodge in the village from £26pp.

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Vijay Nanda

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