It has been a long while since fashion showed any love to the skirt suit. Slouchy trouser suits have recently been rehabilitated; sensible court shoes have made it on to the Vetements catwalk. But the skirt suit – with all its associations of Margaret Thatcher and corporate anonymity – has remained an outfit for which style mavens had little time.
This season, however, that is changing. After decades in the wilderness, the skirt suit is back. At Louis Vuitton, it came with nipped-in, embellished jackets, while Gucci’s was worn slacker-sized, as if scored in a thrift store two sizes too big. At Moschino, it was Jackie Kennedy perky, complete with pillbox hat and – occasionally – a model with a blue face (designer Jeremy Scott, in his wisdom, imagined that Jackie was an alien for AW18). At Erdem, the muse was Adele Astaire, giving rise to an old school tweedy elegance, while Christian Dior’s were checked and a bit beatnik. Eudon Choi’s had a Thatcher-approved double-breasted jacket, while Calvin Klein’s were deconstructed, asymmetric and fashion-complicated.