Saint Laurent may have dropped the Yves off its name back in 2012, but the man himself continues to bear a heavy influence on current creative director Anthony Vaccarello, who was in a reflective mood at the label’s Paris fashion week show.

Sending models out on to a catwalk platform of still water where they kicked up big splashes in their wake, the designer presented a collection for the French fashion house that took its cue from the brand’s eponymous founder’s gift of reimagining classic codes to create something new.

He was inspired, he explained backstage afterwards, “by the way Paloma Picasso inspired Saint Laurent in the 70s, the way she took the clothes from the 40s and made them her own”. As such, 60s shift dresses with diamanté trim merged with suiting from the same era cut from the thick jersey that Saint Laurent also used when he first established his brand. The 70s were referenced in skin-tight tuxedo suiting worn sometimes with velvet blazers, and when not with waistcoats and ruffled shirts or pussy-bow blouses.

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Vijay Nanda

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