The centre of Obuse is small: a cluster of a dozen shops amid the myriad chestnut fields, with a brewery selling sake and an open square around the edges of which it is possible to buy every kind of chestnut confectionery imaginable. And it is here, in the hush of the middle of almost nowhere, in the cool hills of Nagano prefecture, 150 miles north-west of Tokyo, that the work of Japan’s most prodigious artist has been collected, in the Hokusai Museum.

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Vijay Nanda

The author Vijay Nanda

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