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ictoria’s Secret has a whole bunch of problems right now. Last week’s New York fashion show has been overshadowed by comments made by its boss, Ed Razek (for which he has since apologised), about how it would be inappropriate to cast “transsexuals” in a show “about fantasy”. Profits, sales and market share have all fallen over the past year; most alarmingly, month-by-month breakdown shows the decline growing steeper still. But neither of these are the brand’s biggest problem. The real trouble for Victoria’s Secret is that it is selling the wrong kind of cleavage.

All breasts are beautiful, but some are more fashionable than others. The scaffolded cleavage – hoiked and cantilevered by a push-up bra, twin globes held rigid – is still the style at Victoria’s Secret. On the New York catwalk, Gigi Hadid wore a shiny blue check bra with matching knickers, a billowing tartan cape and a bumbag in the style of a sporran. Kendall Jenner was dressed in a black and silver glitter push-up bra with a multistrap knicker-harness hybrid and frilly wings. There was the odd legging-and-sports-bra concession to athleisure, but the hoisted boob reigned supreme. And, in 2018, this is the wrong kind.

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Vijay Nanda

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